Thursday, November 12, 2009

Excitement!

So, remember when I was worrying about finding the crazy ingredients needed to even think about cooking anything in Chang's book?  Well, last night I skimmed the recipes and wrote down all the ingredients I thought would be hard to find and e-mailed it to my mother.  Now, my mother is from the Philippines and is an avid and talented cook, so growing up, she always had a well-stocked and eclectic pantry.  I knew she'd know what I needed, and would be as excited about this project as I was.  She too gets harebrained ideas that converts her focus to a myopic one-track mind - I guess that's where I get it from!  Further, she has access to expansive Asian markets in my hometown.  As soon as I sent off the e-mail, I resolved to find my own Asian market.  I've never been very patient, and I didn't want my mom to have to go searching for these obscure products.   I had looked for an Asian market in my city once before, and found only a small, cramped "international market" that wouldn't cut it for my Momofuku manifesto.  But I was determined, and more importantly, impatient.  I scoured Google, trying to find places that sold pork belly - I had been in Whole Foods the day before this crazy idea took hold, and had noticed the lack of pork belly, exotic mushrooms, and many more products I didn't know I'd need so soon.  I searched for meat shops and found a couple promising options; I dug a little deeper and found the Yelp! review for a fantastic-sounding (and apparently elusive) Asian market that would be my best shot at finding the spices, sauces, bean pastes and seaweed I'd need.

I called the meat shop asking for pork belly, and was told they'd only sell me fifty pound boxes (!!) of the stuff.  Fifty pounds!  I mean, the Chang uses pork in the vast majority of his dishes, but where in my already packed freezer would I keep fifty pounds of fatty pork?!  I pictured myself clearing out the frozen meat, the bags of edamame (a necessary staple), the lone Fudgsicle hiding behind all the other stuff I stick in the freezer to forget about.  I realized I'd probably forget about the pork belly in there too - and that's a travesty that shouldn't be allowed.  Still, I trucked on - I went to the Asian market, expecting to supplement my pantry with the basics - mirin, sesame oil, hoisin, nothing too scary or daunting - and instead found nearly everything in that e-mail I shot off to my mother in desperation.

I waltzed around this huge, grocery-store sized international market - I was amazed at the variety of spices and produce and meat it offered.  I was so excited I didn't even know where to start.  And the best part?  Aside from fantastic prices (and the occasional expired product that they must have forgotten about on the shelf...) they had PORK BELLY!  I had remembered from childhood going with my mother to Asian markets, and seeing all the curious products - buckets of pig blood, fish heads, and other wonderments - so I threw up a Hail Mary and scoured the meat department.  They had slabs and slabs of pork belly, pork shoulder, hamhocks, not to mention an assortment of octopi, squid, and fish, both dead and so fresh they were still swimming.  I didn't spy any pig heads, but I suspect I won't be tackling that recipe any time soon.  I got nearly everything on my list and joyfully reported back to my mother.  I plan to return soon, and search for the rest of what I need.  A combination of ignorance about what exactly everything is, and a blazing need to use the restroom (too much?) cut my trip short, but not before I left with plentiful booty.  (Heh.  Booty.  Is it weird to be this excited about food?)



I ferreted away with dried shiitakes, konbu (dried seaweed), kewpie mayonnaise (I know, right?), rice wine vinegar, mirin, usukuchi (light soy sauce), Chinese hot mustard, bamboo shoots, shiro (white) miso, Asian sesame oil, wakame chazuke, sriracha, ssamjang (fermented bean paste), kochukaru (Korean chile powder), and...


Hello, lover.

3.70 pounds of luscious pork belly!  It's hard to make it look sexy...or is it?  Maybe its sexiness just can't be captured by mere mortals.  I was so excited about this find.  Luckily it was sold off the rind, although Chang suggests that if it is sold with skin, you can cut it off and use it to make chicharrons - but that's a task for another day.  If you have problems finding pork belly, keep in mind that it's just uncured bacon, also known as fresh side pork.  Persevere, and you shall find!  Or, be prepared to freeze fifty unused pounds.

Now that I have nearly everything I need, I'm excited to start!  First up: Steamed Pork Buns.  And maybe a guest starring role for the buns my mama makes.  Stay tuned...



Wednesday, November 11, 2009

New Purpose.

I am rededicating the purpose of this blog, and funnily enough, it has to do with my previous post. I just left Borders, having made a trip in between classes, to pick up the highly-antipated Momofuku cookbook.

Living in New York the past two summers, I admit I only made it to Momofuku Noodle Bar once, Milk Bar once, and the infamous and seemingly-unattainable Ko once. The food at all three places was soul-satisfying and delicious, bold, unafraid of salt and spice. I usually ignore overzealous hype on any topic, but I suppose I fell victim to the much heralded life-changing experience everyone raved about. I was not disappointed in the food by any means - but maybe I expected David Chang's cuisine to present a brand new outlook on life. It wasn't the best meal of my life, or at least I didn't realize it at the time. It's a tough bar for any experience. In any case - there is something indescribable about the Momofuku quadrumvirate (soon to be expanded - a quintumvirate? Quinquennium? Quintet? Whatever. I just dig unusual words.). It has a draw, a centrifugal force that makes you want to go back and try something new, try again, even if you weren't crazy about it the first time. It is insulting to Chang and his staff to chalk it up to mere novelty. It's the bad boy clique in high school - the ones that will probably beat you up but you still want in. It has a unique appeal, and the food to back it up.

A bit of a tangent, but in short, I have an inexplicable love affair with the Momofuku empire. I've only experienced a wisp of all it has to offer, and I can't wait to get back to the city and immerse myself in its unabashedly porky goodness. It's hard to make that sound eloquent, but I never claimed to be. I hope I get around to reviewing my meals at those places, among all the other places I've eaten, but the purpose of this blog will be to cook my way through the Momofuku cookbook.

Whoa whoa whoa - what? Now, let me preface this by saying - I realize this isn't an original idea. There are a million people who cook their way through cookbooks and live to blog about it. The only one I've ever read was French Laundry at Home - where the hilarious and appealing Carol cooks her way via Thomas Keller. In. Sane. I know there's a lot of attention being given to user-generated content, to Julie and Julia (which I never saw, but keep meaning to), to blogs vs. mass media, especially in light of the unfortunate and abrupt end to Gourmet Magazine. I'm not trying to replace anyone's experience, I'm not trying to put myself out there as a cooking expert or even an intermediate home cook. I don't plan on posting the recipes themselves, because this beautiful book should be bought by anyone and everyone who loves food (although I do hope to post some of my own recipes or companion dishes). I'm just trying to find my creative voice, which I feel has been stifled after three years in law school. Is it weird to look for creativity in a wholly unoriginal idea?

Beyond the fact that I'm just a little fish in a world of beautifully photographed and written food blogs, it is CRAZY to think I'm going to make it through Chang's cookbook for a multitude of other reasons. The first, and not least of which, being - his recipes are freaking NUTS. Pork head? Kochukaru? Where am I going to find these things in my moderately-sized city? Now, I consider myself pretty adventurous with eating, having lived abroad and across these several states. My family is a wild mix of cultures, the most predominant being Filipino, so I'm no stranger to weird ingredients (although don't ask me to eat a fully formed duck in an egg. Please.). But I don't picture myself waltzing out of Whole Foods with an entire PIG HEAD in my environmentally-friendly cloth bag. And further - will I be able to bring myself to actually interact with said pig head if I manage to procure it? I mean...I had no problem chasing my dog around with a live lobster, but I've coveted too many mini pig pets to know for sure I can cut it.

Another obstacle is...do I really have the time and resources to pull this off? I am still a student, and barely have time to catch up on Dexter (and my homework). I don't have those fancy schmancy cameras that make food look like it was sent from the gods; I can't find my meat thermometer and I definitely don't have the most poise in the kitchen. Not to mention I have a very short attention span and have already abandoned this blog once before. But there's no need to be a Debbie Downer. This blog gives me an outlet, something to do and something to keep me inspired and entertained.

Despite all the arguments against doing this, somehow, I remain undaunted. Maybe it's the legal career looming in the hazy foreground. Maybe it's my love of food and need to create. Maybe it's my fear that once I leave law school I'll turn into a boring old adult. Maybe I'm just fucking nuts.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Momofuku Ko

To be elaborated upon later...

Amuse
- chicharrones seasoned with shichimi
- fluke tartare
- homemade biscuit (yeast roll?) with black pepper butter

1st course
- scallop sashimi with pineapple vinegar

2nd course
- cold dashi with fresh Santa Barbara uni, mustard greens, cucumber, pea shoot and snow peas

3rd course
- saffron shoot soup, with loose grits, Louisiana crawfish and ham

4th course
- lightly smoked soft poached chicken egg with hackleback caviar, soubise onions and fingerling potato chips with sweet potato vinegar and chervil

5th course
- frozen foie gras torchon shaved over lychees, pine nut brittle and reisling gelee

6th course
- Maryland softshell crab with hearts of palm, celery noodles and old bay butter

7th course
- deep fried beef short ribs with chive oil, miso, and seasonal onions, three ways - grilled ramps, green onion puree, and balsamic pickled red onions

8th course
- cantaloupe sorbet over lemon verbena granita

9th course
- roasted rhubarb with olive oil ganache, ice cream and crunchy streusel (?)

David Chang - absent. Serpico - indifferent. Service - fantastic. Overall impression - some standouts (yeast roll, fluke, scallop, poached egg, rhubarb dessert), worth the experience but left feeling a bit disappointed. Will definitely pay money for good food, but didn't think this was quite worth it. Might change mind though. For another yeast roll.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

stream-of-consciousness

I usually pride myself on having a near-photographic memory, until I try to remember something and find myself terrifically mistaken. Sure, when I DO remember something, I'll remember everything - tone, pitch, inflection, how it looked, the soft-scented breeze, yada yada yada. I often confuse that for having a good memory.

The two do not necessarily go hand in hand. To be fair, I have a pretty good memory, just not as good as I like to think. So, on that note...

...A wee little list to help remind me of things I could potentially immortalize in this blog'o'power (scary how quickly my blog went from, "sticking my toe in" to "blog'o'power"). Feel free to skip. Or feel free to FEEL THE POWER (do you have enough room in here, for you and my blog's suddenly inflated ego? No? Allow me to deflate. Pfffffffffffffffffffffft. Doneskis.).

Le Bernardin
Daniel
Morimoto
S'mac
Lucali
Keen's
John's Shanghai
Craft
Fatty Crab
The Spotted Pig
Adrienne's
Megu Midtown
August
L'Express
Pastis
Schiller's Liquor Bar
Cafeteria
Mad Dog & Beans Cantina
Beckett's
Henry St.
Sweetipie's
Patsy's
Sweet Revenge
Rare
Charlie Mom's
Apt 138
Cafe Society
Pinkberry v. Red Mango
Citarella
Momofuku Ko

amuse bouche

Sticking my toe into the blogging world. I live for food, I abhor the term "foodie," I don't like when people think an incandescent love for food makes you a snob. I don't think loving food has to be snobby. I could spend all day looking at menus and food blogs and absorbing as much as I can about cuisine. I'm a terrible food photographer; I always forget to take pictures before I taste a dish because I get too excited. Plus I'm too shy to whip out the camera at most places anyway. Nothing about me suggests that I'd make a successful blogger...but I love food and I love remembering what I eat. Good enough for me.